Armani Acqua di Giò is the men’s eau de toilette Alberto Morillas composed in 1996. 

It opens on orange, jasmine, lemon, bergamot, lime, neroli and mandarin orange blossom. The heart is long: sea notes, jasmine again, peach, rosemary, freesia, hyacinth, cyclamen, violet, coriander, nutmeg, rose and mignonette. White musk, cedar, oakmoss, patchouli and amber make up the base.

Two details in that list explain how it wears. Jasmine is the only material named in both the top and the heart, so it is the thread that carries you from the citrus into the middle without a gap. And the sea notes, the part that earns the name, do not sit up front in the listed pyramid. They are one of twelve heart materials, packed in with florals, peach and two spices, coriander and nutmeg. With that many voices, no single flower takes over, and the effect tends to read as one clean, watery blend. Underneath, there is no oud, no vanilla and no leather. Amber is the only warm, sweet material in the base.

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